I Have Returned To The Living... in time for the 1st day of the Day of the Dead Celebration.. Nov 1
- PhilippaBergSoloSayulita
- Nov 2, 2018
- 6 min read

In the Día de Muertos Festival in Sayulita it is believed that the souls of children return on the first day of November, and the souls of adults return on November 2nd. I just returned a day earlier... I am only on vacation for 14 days and illness was not in my original itinerary. Adapt and move on.
The Plaza is a buzzing hub of activity today. The festivities began as soon as the heavy rain stopped this morning. I awoke to booming thunder. It was quite the difference from Mr. Cock A Doodle Doo‘s wake up call. I stepped out onto my private veranda to watch the lightening light up the morning sky. The humidity, warmth and loud cracks of thunder were intoxicating. The air smelled so sweet and fresh. It was then I met the on-site cat. He jumped onto my lap & we watched the show together from the covered veranda. Something comforting about an animal here~reminder of home.
The rain is relentless for about an hour then the sky opens up and it’s business as usual. The construction in the near by area starts up. Sayulita is a strange mix of newer concrete structures held up by what seems the walls of neighbouring disintegrating concrete walls and vines. Work is done the “old fashioned way”...mixing concrete in old wheelbarrows, buckets & spades, men, no hard hats, no safety belts. There is obviously little sense of urgency. The work sites appear haphazard and I feel a sense of confusion... “why that way when there is s better way?“ Coming from little Miss Type A Realtor lady I put myself in check... “different way Philippa”. I am reminded of my own Renos at home on the beach house. What started as an indulgence for a hot tub led to the need for a reinforced deck, which led to noticing the siding was rotting, to noticing the insulation was non existent, to replacing the windows, doors, gutters, roof...can you see where this is going? The beach house was built in the 60’s as a “beach house”... over the years it has been held together with bandaids and now it will be held together with a significant chunk of my credit line. It’s Comox waterfront~ can’t go wrong with waterfront right? My 5 month project is “almost” complete so is my credit line. What “they” say is true... rule of thumb-~twice as long, twice as much. The silver lining is I LOVE IT and my contractor has provided quality work. No more bandaids!
Back to Sayulita.
I had breakfast at Chocobanana on the main strip in the Plaza~ best known for ? You guessed it~ their bananas and their all day breakfasts and FREE WIFI. I settle on oatmeal with bananas and an ice coffee. I want to test my tummy before anything too risky. It’s delicious! I am surrounded by large multi-generation Mexican families and their dogs. For the first time I feel a pang of loneliness sitting at my table for one. A dog starts licking my toes & I snap out of it~ “somebody wants me“ :-)
There is activity everywhere, stands being set up, alters built, stage equipment being brought in and more flowers and flags to be hung from the storefronts. I take it all in and sit with my “loneliness” ~ I am learning that the best thing to do to overcome it ~Is actually embrace it ~ accept it as part of being human? We all feel it at certain times in our lives. It’s greatly personal ~loneliness~ it doesn’t necessarily hit you when you are alone. For me it comes in waves of nostalgia of times passed by... Family memories, times my daughter was younger when we were a traditional family, missing old flames, some more than others, sometimes just missing familiarity... a holiday, a smell, a song, a meal, a touch. Then it passes and it’s back to reality and living in the present.
I prepared myself to feel loneliness taking this trip alone. Decided to face it, feel it and sit with it. I know what I need to do to overcome if I wish to while I am here~ reach out and connect with people. It’s about connection. For an introvert at heart this takes courage or tequila! I decide I’m really not that lonely in the moment and instead focus on what I want to do while in Sayulita now that my guts are back in check.
I book a sailboat cruise with Ally Cat Adventures for Saturday out to las Marietas Islands for Saturday. Home to the very rare Blue Footed Boobie Birds. A day of snorkelling, swimming and relaxing.
I then send two emails to local horse ranchers both with glowing testimonials for the care of their horses. Seems silly to rent a horse when you have a perfectly good ones at home standing in his stall. However, something about the idea of galloping across a Mexican beach and through the jungle is enticing. Why not?
I spend the remainder of the morning exploring the village. I am amazed by the number of back alley kitchens where food is being prepared. Tables of bbq chicken thighs and corn husks, the smell is inviting but I won't even consider going there. I locate my next Airbnb The Paradaiso Yoga Retreat. I won't make the mistake twice of being lost. It is more on the outskirts of the Plaza behind a tall rock wall. It is described as quite modest in comparison to my current Boutique style Casa. The Yoga comes highly recommended so I will give it a fair chance. The bathroom and shower are outside of my small bungalow. No a/c and a small basin. There is a shared outside kitchen and lounge area~ might be nice to meet some fellow yoga souls?
My last 4 days of my stay I have not yet booked. This is "living on the edge" so to speak for my usually highly organized self. It is funny as I write this I can see my bag still not unpacked, nor clothes folded another new point of interest to me.My bed is of course made.
The afternoon I spend lazing by the pool. It is me and my new Cat companion. No sign of the families today. We each sprawl out on a lounge chair. He has done this before, he takes the shady spot. I opt for the sunshine with regular dips into the refreshing pool. I can hear the music in the Plaza and the smells of meat cooking from below. My phone dings and it is the Firefighters. Their wedding is at 6pm and an invite to meet for drinks later on. I feel this might be too late of a night for this poolside gal.

I opt to throw on a dress and head back to the Plaza for the evening. I am amazed by the transformation over the afternoon. The stage is up, the alters are completed with framed photos of the dead and offerings of fresh flowers, sweet breads and personal items. Men, women and children are brightly painted as skeletons and in full costume. There are streamers, balloons, flags suspended from the street tops. It is hectic yet inviting. It is a local family atmosphere that feels safe. Young children are racing barefoot around the candle lit offerings on the grass. I treat myself to a specialty made fruit bar from Wa Kikas... a popular spot for home made icecream. I decide against a cocktail tonight and find a seat on the ledge to watch the entertainment. I am filled with joy at watching this culture celebrate their tradition for a celebration of their dead. I am fortunate I have not lost many close to me. The few I have lost in recent years I send them love as I meander through the alters.
I head back to my casa and open the french doors onto my private veranda. The ceiling fan is on and the brightly cushioned couch is calling my name. I can hear the music from below and I feel for the first time in a long time content doing nothing. The cat appears from the pool deck and decides to join me. My phone dings and it is the Firefighters~ " we are heading to the Plaza soon, come meet us for drinks.". My initial reaction is to get up and then I sit back down. The thought of tequila shots and dancing tonight is not what "I " really "want" to do. I want to sit here and DO nothing. The music below is enough. I text them back and decline and counter with an invitation to join me at a new beach tomorrow. Tonight it is just me and the Cat.
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