Paraiso... Nov 5, 2018

Falling in Love with Taking Care of yourself... Body, Mind & Soul

I check in to my 3rd Airbnb destination... Paraiso Yoga. It is on the “other side” of the river, across the bridge on the south side of Sayulita Plaza . In lament terms it is a 3 minute walk into the main Plaza. I wheel my trusty carry on case over the cobblestone roads with skill now~ navigating the cars, golf carts, dogs and potholes. It is always a good idea to look down where you are walking in Sayulita.

I pass the strip of street vendors... strings of brightly coloured pom poms, keychains, masks, dog collars, blankets and tourist style Mexican wear...  turn right past a small store. An elderly Mexican man is slumped down into in a $6.99 style Canadian tire white plastic chair that has seen better days. So has he. He is thin and weathered and I almost want to touch him to make sure he’s still with the living. He snorts and wakes himself up. I smile and and he does not return the expression. Regardless, "Welcome back amigo".

Paraiso is just around the corner.  The iron gate is open today and I let myself in where I’m greeted by my host. My room is ready early and they have upgraded me to the Corazones Bungalow~ with a full bathroom inside. I buy a punch pass for yoga and I’m shown my new casa. It is modest... 2 double beds with princess mosquito netting tethered from the brick ceiling above, a small table and chair,  two fans and a bathroom. It’s different from my last Boutique pool side casa. It is also a quarter of the price and it is a new and different experience I tell myself- I am here for the yoga and to meet fellow Yoga retreaters after all. There is a communal outside kitchen and living area and an on-site cat "Mirabi"- she is the queen of the grounds & she’s already hovering at my feet... when did I become such a cat person? The gardens are beautiful, serene and inviting. A tranquil garden oasis tucked behind the iron gates in the middle of the village.

It’s time for my first yoga class.. a Power Flow class with Leah ...  the studio is directly above my casa- open aired , surrounded by the zen gardens, long white flowing curtains, 2 ceiling fans whirling above to move the heavy air. There is a small alter in the corner with a solo burning candle. The class is glorious- the right amount of flow, stretch and strength. Each vinyasa flowing into the next. There are 4 of us today.. 3 "newer" locals and me.  My relaxed self is one level deeper into bliss.  

After class I explore my new neighbourhood on this side of the river~ I see a sign marked the Hippy Market that runs along the river, it is a series of tattered tarps covering various kiosks~  as locals sit on the popular white chairs selling their wares... items are the same... cotton blankets, hand made beaded dog collars, key chains, ceramic bowls and Mexican style clothing. I am more drawn to the children... playing in the back of an old truck that looks like it’s last journey was in the 70’s - the simplicity of in and out again and the giggling following suit, others are splashing in the shallow river beside a white donkey that’s tied to a branch in the shade on the bank. I clamber down the bank to take a closer look... The kids are enjoying the simple pleasures of childhood... no iPhones, xboxes or laptops...

I am reminded of a time in my childhood spent in MooseJaw Saskatchewan mixing mud pies in an old red wagon, catching grasshoppers and riding bikes with neighborhood kids. It was in the early days when our family first immigrated from England for my Dad to practice medicine. The quality of life was to be much greater in Canada for a Physician. My parents packed up us two kids, their antiques and crossed the Atlantic~ not once but twice. That is a story for another day.

Back to Sayulita...

Today is a beach day~ I make myself down to Los Muertos Beach. The Cemetery is quieter today... only a few families remain to visit their Dead, share a meal and some memories. The beach is also quiet. The sand is soft and appears to be flecked with gold. It shimmers on the beach and through my finger tips while I swim. My new favourite past time is to swim out to the furthest boy and to float on my back, head in the water gazing back into the sky. I can hear the sand move through the water below me like sand through an hourglass. I see how little of me can move in order to stay perfectly afloat on the top of the water. There is a certain vulnerability to it I am exploring. I am noticing a change in me... I’m calmer, content of just being. No rush to do anything or be anywhere. My time is completely my own ,my innate tenancies  to organize, plan and take control are gone here. I’m no longer trying to be present... I just am. I am yet to decide what my last 4 days in Mexico will look like. I assure myself I will know when I know and take peace in that I have my trusty VISA card~ I have options.

Each part of this solo trip has been different... The first; pushing myself out of my comfort zone~ taking the chicken bus, dining alone, surviving Montesumas Revenge, familiarizing myself with myself and my with my new surroundings. The second; a move to #5 Casita Friday Poolside Boutique Hotel, making friends with the cat, appreciating the pool & private veranda, the Firefighters, Celebration of the Dead and the sailboat adventure with Ally Cats .The 3rd has just begun... Paraiso Yoga Retreat, a simple yoga retreat in a part of the village that is much quieter.... I’m looking forward to 3 days of stretching and strength.  From there... who knows?

I return to my Paraiso casa to find I am but the solo guest staying at the small retreat for my stay. Gates are locked at 6pm and I’m the only one on the grounds. They have been on hiatus and only re-opened yesterday. Their guests are select to reside at the small retreat. I feel flattered and a little deflated in the same moment...Hmmmm... there goes the opportunity to mingle behind the gates with fellow yoga retreaters. I return to my room, open some curtains, tie back the mosquito netting over my bed and pull out my toiletry bag. That is the extent of my "nesting". The sun is starting to go down and I wander the gardens within the gates. Mirabai is at my side. I can't help but consider my options... 1. Logon to Airbnb and move tomorrow, a room with a view would be nice? I can still attend the yoga classes 2. Make the best of the modest experience... it’s clean, comfortable and although I’m not a Princess~ it Does have two princess netting beds. It’s strange to be the solo guest behind the locked gate. (of course I do have a key) It’s very quiet and very dark. I feel isolated- different from lonely.

The next morning I wander back  to familiar territory for an early breakfast at Paninos.   They now know me my name "Philipe" said with a Spanish "O lay"... The Greek omelette with fresh fruit is delicious, as is the bagel sandwich and croissants. The coffee comes steaming hot and filled to the rim of the paper cup. The orange juice is freshly squeezed and I swallow down the pips. The owners son has just got a new puppy~ a pitbull cross ? There are many pitbull cross varieties in Sayulita; all unleashed, friendly, tails wagging and wearing brightly coloured beaded collars. I am told by one of the locals over breakfast that even the strays now wear collars~ it was the way to avoid them being carted off to the pound. All are friendly, respectful and fully aware of the busy roads. Here... the Pitbull cross is a popular breed due to their ability to withstand the heat, their short coats and happy disposition. It is a shame in Canada that they are often the breed sought out by the insecure human looking for a status symbol of danger and control to boost their small egos. Don't blame the breed, blame the owner and the culture I say.

I'm looking forward to see a friend driving in from Puerto Vallarta this morning to join me for yoga. She pulls up in a white 4 seated Ford ~nicest car I’ve seen thus far since arriving. This morning it is a Hatha Class and there are 8 of us . It is a wonderful class and we pose for a photo to capture the experience. It is her first Hatha experience. We met this year through mutual "barn" friends in Comox~she had recently spent the last 7 years living in Puerto Vallarta doing Marketing at one of the big resorts~ she had an established life there... She is now back in Canada working on the paperwork to have her boyfriend join her. It is a long and pricey process. It is good to see her and we swap stories of Beaufort. (my horse, that she also rides for me)~We learn that Beaufort has 2 very distinctive and different sides to him, the cheeky boy. For her on the trails he’s anxious, rude, jumpy and strong... in the ring he’s fluid, attentive and aiming to please. He rarely shows affection towards her and he's a bit of a "bugger". My experience is the reverse~ a gentleman on the solo trails ( we avoid going out with others~ that is more about my comfort level than his I suspect ?) He is heavy on the leg in the ring and unless in a lesson we both agree to keep our stay short in there these days. He is affectionate and curious towards me... is this the result of a 3 year uphill battle to bond or simply the carrots I greet him with ? We decide to call his BS when we return home on Sunday and show up together. I am reminded of a man caught in a love triangle and having to face the music so to speak... I miss my big boy.

We grab smoothies and explore the village. As we traipse down the side streets we both notice the garbage and general lack of giving a fuck. Having spent the last 7 years in PV... her explanation is "it is a different culture, a lack of education and a lack of resources." As tourism grows it is starting to change... I try to withhold my judgment but ~ why not take pride in even simple things people own? Is it not easier to live amongst cleanliness? It could be so much more beautiful ... Regardless the people are happy and it is me that is but a guest in their community. There is still great beauty here amongst the debris...flowers grow through cracks of crumbling buildings, fresh flowers are placed in a vase on a staircase, brightly coloured flags and pom poms displayed on a door step.

That night I shower and change into my best dress... it is wrinkled and moist but its clean. I want to watch the surfers and take in the sunset. The streets are much quieter tonight. The beach umbrellas are gone and replaced with local surfers and couples cooing on beach blankets. I tuck my dress between my knees and take a seat on the sand. I find myself grinning from ear to ear~ is this what it’s like to be alone and not lonely? Happy with my own company? The couple beside me requests a photo to capture their moment and then returns the favour. It is a beautiful Sayulita sunset.

I head back into the Plaza and explore the same storefront booths I now know so well, contemplate icecream? taco? I have not had much of an appetite since I returned to the living. I am drawn to a restaurant up from the church.... it is playing soft jazz and I am drawn in by the twinkly patio lights and decor. I review the menu~ its pricey for Sayulita. A table for one please. I join a lesbian couple who are sitting at the bar on a first date I suspect from their body language and a young couple that are seated beside me. I’m comfortable, content and hungry... I order a mojito -it is full of fresh mint & lime and half of it is gone in one large "sip". I sit back taking in the ambience- reflecting on my comfort level sitting here alone compared to my initial few meals in Sayulita. I decide upon the Chefs special...red snapper, cooked in a white pepper sauce caramelized grapes and scallions. It arrives looking like a piece of art and I cant help but take a photo. The flavours are so rich I find myself devouring it ~ I have an insatiable appetite~ and order a second mojito. ,A large table has now arrived and the restaurant is getting busier. It is my cue to leave. The mojitos have gone to my head and I am not yet satiated.

The night is still early and I explore the village... perhaps I will run into the "young beautiful one".... instead I find myself at Wa Kika ordering my third iced treat of the day... a chocolate cone. As I walk home I pass the old man... still slumped in his chair. I wonder if he will be there in the morning?